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Mistake:applied fertlzr+weed ctrl to newly seeded bare patch

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Mistake:applied fertlzr+weed ctrl to newly seeded bare patch

Postby VEFF on Mon Nov 07, 2005 11:28 am

1) Recently I fixed two bare patches (one quite large. Approx 12 feet long by varying widthes of up to 5 feet), by doing the following, after reading the instructions carefully:
I cleaned (removing weeds and stones etc.) and raking existing soil.
I raked the area
I laid down Scotts Lawn Soil with 'Starter' fertilizer.
I laid down Scotts Patchmaster (contains mulch, fertilizer and grass seeds
all in one bag; it is pre-mixed).
I have been watering the patches twice daily

Here is where I screwed up.
This weekend, I decided to do my lawn winterization before it was too late:
- Mowed lawn (the day before).
- Cleaned the majority of leaves first.
- Watered entire lawn (as directed)
- Applized 'Scotts winterizer fertilizer with Plus2 weed control' on entire
lawn, including the Patchmaster patches (laid down about 3 weeks ago).

I could have sworn it said I could apply fertilizer to the newly seeded areas after 2 - 3 weeks, on the Patchmaster bag.
Well, it apparently says 4 - 6 weeks.
The two to three weeks (that I had in my mind) must have been the time period (after laying down Patchmaster) during which it should be watered twice daily.
I also read the fertilizer bag again (tons of directions and info) and noticed
that, while I followed all the instructions for regular lawn, there was a special note about not applying it to newly seeded areas until after the fourth mowing (presumably so that the new grass seedlings would be strong enough to handle the strength or the fetilizer and . or the included weed control chemicals).

[b]Does anyone know if I am screwed or is it possible that the two newly seeded areas may survive the early fertilizer+weed control application?

I know only time will tell, to a degree, but thought some of you might have some knowledge about this.

The worst part is that the new grass was just starting to sprout up in some spots, after no signs for the first 2 1/2 weeks, and now I may have wated all of my time.

2) I applied the fertilizer Saturday; I wanted to get it done ASAP, since it should be applied when
a) temps are 60 - 90 (we are expecting cooler weather later this week)
b) should be applied by early Nov
c) I needed time to clear all the leaves and apply water to the lawn prior to the fertilizer being spread, all of which I don't have time for during the week.

I checked the forecast; you are not supposed to apply within 24 hours of rain due to the rain potentially washing the weed control of the weed leaves.
It said at best a slight chance of rainsome of the Sunday morning, but (far) more likely (just) late afternoon.
I had to do it this weekend due to time considerations and to the fact that it was supposed to rain during the week too, even if I could somehow find time to do it during the week. The leaves would soon starts falling even faster and numerous hours to clear.

Anyway, it rained (very lightly) EARLY Sunday morning (about 12 - 17 hours after application; not sure if it was overnight or in the morning).
[b]I was thinking of (already did it a bit Sunday) applying some granules (lightly) directly to the weed (clover?) leaves.
HOWEVER, since the lawn is already fertilized and the granules dissolve, I didn't want to indirectly over fertilize the already-fertilized lawn in the areas where the weeds are.
Any tips would be appreciated?

Thanks!
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Postby CowboySlim on Mon Nov 07, 2005 2:00 pm

Veff,

I'd leave everything alone for a while. The stuff in the Scott's TB+2 is a broadleaf weedkiller. IMHO, these weeds are annuals and should die off anyway in the fall/winter. The TB+2 is mainly for spring and summer use.

As early as possible in the spring at after the new grass seedlings are well established, use the Scotts TB+4, Halts or Halts+, which are pre-emergence treatments. The prevent seeds already in the ground from germinating and sprouting. Obviously, you cannot use this stuff before planting grass seed.

You could consider the extra expense of purchasing sod.

10-4?

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Postby VEFF on Tue Nov 08, 2005 2:54 pm

CowboySlim wrote:Veff,

I'd leave everything alone for a while. The stuff in the Scott's TB+2 is a broadleaf weedkiller. IMHO, these weeds are annuals and should die off anyway in the fall/winter. The TB+2 is mainly for spring and summer use.

As early as possible in the spring at after the new grass seedlings are well established, use the Scotts TB+4, Halts or Halts+, which are pre-emergence treatments. The prevent seeds already in the ground from germinating and sprouting. Obviously, you cannot use this stuff before planting grass seed.

You could consider the extra expense of purchasing sod.

10-4?

Slim


10-4!
Thanks a lot Slim!

I wasn't aware about those weeds being annuals! Thanks.

Regarding sod, I had thought of that, but a neighbor mentioned that it might look too perfect and stand out from the rest of the (existing) lawn.

In any case, I am curious to see if those broadleaf weeds do disappear, as you think they might, although I won't know for sure if the weed killer in the fertilizer did it, or if they are annual as you suspect.
I'll research these weeds a bit, at some point, for next time though.
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Postby CowboySlim on Tue Nov 08, 2005 7:09 pm

OK, Veff, for the future, I'll add this.

I never use the Scott's TB + 2, or any similar solid, granular fertilizer, weedkiller type stuff. I always use a liquid mix of something like the Ortho Weed-B-Gone, 2, 4, D stuff for annual, broadleaf type weeds.

More later,

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Postby Ian on Tue Nov 08, 2005 8:40 pm

You guys and your fancy weed killers. I just make my dog pee in the same spot for a few days. It kills everything. :wink:
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Postby CowboySlim on Tue Nov 08, 2005 10:03 pm

Hey, Veff, do you want to borrow Ian's dog and if that doesn't do it, I've got two?

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Postby Ian on Tue Nov 08, 2005 10:52 pm

I forgot to add.. if you want your grass to grow better, just let the dog poop in the same spot for a few days. :D
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Postby CowboySlim on Wed Nov 09, 2005 12:59 am

That doesn't work for me. If you recall, I collect the poop and mix it up with all my important personal, financial papers in a plastic bag before I put them out for garbage pickup.

Don't need an electric shredder - saves energy - delays global warming! :P

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Postby dodecahedron on Wed Nov 09, 2005 2:31 am

CowboySlim wrote:Don't need an electric shredder - saves energy - delays global warming! :P

hey slim, you don't need an electric shredder.
what you need is a special MIXER that will ensure that the dog poop is evenly spread on all of those precious personal documents - protection for every bit of paper! :)
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Postby VEFF on Wed Nov 09, 2005 10:24 am

Darn, I don't have a dog.

Maybe I will take you up on borrowing one of yours. ;)
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Postby dodecahedron on Wed Nov 09, 2005 10:34 am

perhaps it's possible to buy dog-poop online at ebay ? :lol:
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Postby CowboySlim on Wed Nov 09, 2005 12:09 pm

dodecahedron wrote:perhaps it's possible to buy dog-poop online at ebay ? :lol:


Let's have Hox check. He's the EBay expert. :lol:
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Postby MediumRare on Wed Nov 09, 2005 3:31 pm

Surely it can't be a problem to find a local source of dog poop. :o I mean, in most cases home owners have the opposite problem.

Talk to a neighbour if Hox doesn't come though.

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Postby dolphinius_rex on Wed Nov 09, 2005 4:51 pm

dodecahedron wrote:perhaps it's possible to buy dog-poop online at ebay ? :lol:


Only the fake stuff I think
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Postby CowboySlim on Thu Nov 17, 2005 3:18 pm

Hey, Veff, now I got a problem:

There is a water leak at the outlet of the water meter where it connects into the main water feed pipe (plastic) into my house.

OK, here is the deal: I'm not going to fool with it myself; I've summoned a plumber.

So, what does this mean to you? Why am I telling you this?

Here is what I can do for you if you want me to: I can can a video cam and record all the stuff that the plumber guy does.

Then when you have that problem in the future, I can send you a DVD with the repair procedure on it. :P

10-4?

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